The surf has been small for the past couple of days - so - it's given me a little time to think about stuff -
"Oh no - run for the hills, BA's old brain - if there's anything left of it - is gonna explode!"
What is it about surfing that has kept me coming back, day after day, year after year - why have I kept adding to this stupid web site for as long as I have?
Simple - not only is it the exercise, and enjoyment that I receive from the sport, but it's the classic characters I've met - and am still meeting along the way - that are a huge part of my life experience!
I guess, not only do I want my kids to share some of my daily experiences, but I also want to introduce, and memorialize, in my own way, some of the characters I've met through the years - and just maybe - write a more accurate history - at least in my opinion - of some of La Jolla's surfing lore.
2. Here are some more of Doug Moranville'sclassic photos of La Jolla, late sixties, and early seventies.
There are even some of ME - photo by Doug Moranville - this was a photo shoot for a "Shark Watch" wristwatch [note my right wrist - not my right and left cheeks]