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 BA rides a giant

- Dec 13, 2004 -

Contrary to Elitist East Coasters - The Seasons Do Change somewhere in SoCal

Change of Seasons - Visible the BA way - Barrio LJ - Wind**Sea Beach

A few hundred years ago - when I was a kid learning to surf at The Shores - I paid a lot of attention to the ebb and flow of the tides -

A medium to high tide at The Shores made it easier to practice standing-up on my Richard Gooch Balsa Board -

A low tide, especially in the winter, made it easier to skim board on my round plywood board -

We could skim from the Marine Room to Scripps, and then we would dig around the tide pools at both ends of The Shores -

The change of seasons for me - 50 years ago - if it were winter - meant low to very low tides in the afternoons [skim boarding, tide pool activities after school] high tides in the mornings - [surfing before school]

Of course the water was colder, and the waves were bigger at The Shores in the winter - but we were kooks, and nobody wore wetsuits back then, so big deal -

We surfed so crappy that wave size and quality didn't mean much - and and we just got colder, faster, in the winter than we did in the summer -

- BUT -

I finally graduated from being a Shores Dairy Marter [farm team] to a Shores Guy who was allowed to surf Wind**Sea.

By this time, I had a driver's license and a key to The Road at B***k's.

I'd surf Wind**Sea in the summer, and B****'s in the winter -

I spent very little time "uptown" in the winter, except for the good days at The Rock or Horseshoe -

- SO -

For about 40 years, the change of seasons, for me, meant surfing north of B***er in the winter, south of B**m*r in the summer -

- NOW -

I'm spending a lot more time at the LJ Reefs than I am at The Chores.

- AND -

I've become fascinated by the seasonal sand movement between Point Robertson and The Lounge -

Fourth of July      Labor Day      This afternoon - BA -

By the way - Surf Prediction from the SURFWIZ:

Forecast: - 14 Dec 04:

Weak surf today, but a new NW swell (2.2'/1.5' 18.9s 293d) begins arriving tonight.

This swell builds quickly through Wednesday (AM: 5.1'/3.4' 17.3s 292d; midday: 10.3'/6.9' 15.9s 291d) and peaks Wednesday night (12.0'/8.0' 13.6s 288d).

It is almost the same size Thursday morning (11.4'/7.6' 13.6s 288d), but then fades through Thursday afternoon (7.9'/5.2'13.3s 290d).

Thursday night sees the beginning of a large WNW swell (3.6'/2.4' 20.2s 286d).

This swell builds a little overnight into Friday morning (8.1/5.4' 19.6s 287d) then builds more quickly and peaks Saturday morning (19.5'/13.0' 16.5s 288d).

The swell then fades through the remainder of Saturday (night: 13.9'/9.3' 14.7s 288d) and into Sunday (AM: 11.9'/7.9'
14.4s 288d; night: 7.9'/5.2' 13,3s 288d).

This swell continues into Monday with only a small decrease (AM: 7.0'/4.7' 13.2s 287d).

A new WNW swell begins arriving Sunday night (2.4'/1.6' 20.3s 282d) and builds into Monday (AM: 5.6'/3.8' 19.1s 283d) and peaks Monday night (16.4'/10.9' 16.3s 283d) and slowly fades into (next) Tuesday morning (16.0'/10.7' 15.1s 283d).

Saturday morning sees the swell almost the same size (21.3'/14.2' 16.4s 287d).

It fades through the day (afternoon: 15.8'/10.5' 15.7s 288d) and into Sunday morning (12.0'/8.0' 14.5s 288d).

However, a new WNW swell begins arriving Sunday night (3.4'/2.3' 19.4s 283d) and quickly builds overnight into (next) Monday morning (7.2'/4.8' 17.3s 285d) to combine with the remains of the swell (7.7'/5.1' 13.0s 287d) that peaked Friday night.

(end of forecast period)

BA



BA snaps a secret spot photo before the hostile locals can take the camera away from him -
Photo of BA and Patrick by: Jordan Finkelstein

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