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Welcome to Bill Andrews' Electronic Fish Wrapper!
- 05 Jan 2005 -
"If you don't see any kooks in the water, then you're probably the kook" [BA 2004]
A while ago - actually a long time ago - I had a little battle with cancer -
Statistically, I was given about 3 -6 months to live - boy I sure tricked 'em.
- BUT -
I still gotta go in for check-ups every 6 - 12 months [Oncology, Urology, Cardiology, Orthopaedic, and a couple new ones].
Today was the start of my check-ups, as well as the time to schedule some surgery on my elbow and other far less cool body parts -
My doctors are still alive [that's encouraging] and all of my visits were successful - the real fun will begin in a couple of weeks - ouch!
After about 7 hours at Scripps, I made a late pm dash for The Arena.
I was feeling pretty good about myself, and my health, and I was ready to tackle some Arena waves.
I was hoping for two things:
1. The waves would be good [I got front row parking, and the waves were pretty good]
2. Thorpe would not be in The Lot [he wasn't when I paddled out]
So far, for the day, so good -
- AND -
Since I figger that I still surf reasonably well, and that I've been surfing in The Arena for about 45 years, my wave count should be okay -
- WELL -
Those thoughts lasted about 1 nanosecond!
"Jeeze BA, get to the point, didn't you just slug-down a gallon of Ensure?"
The line-up contained about 20 young men, no old guys, no longboards, nobody over the age of 25, except ME.
The surfing skill level was from Kelly Slaterish down to Rob Machadoish - Ian Rotgans was the leader of the pack, and the rest were nipping at his heels.
A few things about these kids:
1. They are in better surfing shape than I EVER was -
2. They NEVER stop paddling -
3. They push each other to do a more difficult maneuver than the one before - kindda like surfing's version of basketball's HORSE -
4. They'll take-off on waves sideways, backwards, upside down, as well as in the missionary position -
5. They do "stuff" on waves that I didn't dream about doing when I was their age - I couldn't have even drawn stick figures of some of the skills they exhibit -
And - most importantly - at least in my opinion - it's their turn to dominate in the line-up -
All I did was:
1. Get in their way -
2. Get sucked backwards on an aborted duckdive - my backward progress was stopped abruptly by some kid's head - he was duck diving on the same wave, his progress was forward - until I rammed him -
The kid's name is Steve [I think], a really nice guy, and a good surfer!
I am really sorry about hitting you - thank goodness that the major damage I caused was to your board, and not your head!
- IT WAS THEN THAT I FELT -
Like maybe, just maybe, I'm not 25 years old any more - that I am actually 60 years old
Maybe it's time, sometimes, to watch, and not participate -
That I should have directed my warning -
"If you don't see any kooks in the water, then you're probably the kook!"
to ME
Naw - who am I kidding - I'll be back out there after some ego repair - La Jolla Shores Style -
By the way - the sunset really sucked today!
BA
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