Well, I took a couple of days off this week, not from work, but
from surf -
Thursday was the day of atonement for my crappy performance the day
before - and Friday had zero surf -
"Hey BA, nature's throwing
you a south wind, a wind swell, a really high tide, there ain't gonna be any
surf again for you - three days in a row without exercise, maybe you'll need an
exorcism - "
Bummer, I don't have any idea of where to search for
surf, maybe I'll just head for The Chores and see if there are any New York Jet
Babes walking on the beach -
Pretty cold today too, in fact there were
some ice
clumps on the beach and on the boardwalk -
BUMMER - there won't be any bikinied New York babes walking around here this
am.
There was quite a bit of activity in the lot this morning -
Surfer John Warren cruised thru in his shiny new redSUV, and the cops looked
like they had made some sort of collar -
The Bench of Ten Thousand
Reasons [of why I didn't surf today] became a temporary ER for one of
Wind**Sea's finest, Teddy Smith.
The wave was not a bomb, but it did offer a pretty steep take-off.
Not bad - but - I had to share the wave with a surf babe!
No way could my personal Wave of Change be ridden by a girl - a very HOT one at that - but jeeze the alpha male just has to ride the biggest - the badest wave - certainly not a wave that a girl could also conquer!
- THEN -
Adding some additional insult to injury
- I got stuck inside.
- OF COURSE -
Michelle paddled right back outside - I gave up.
I belly-rode a wave to the beach - and walked down to the Marine Room - [I know I can make it out there]
Fortunately [at least for me] like all things big or small - the bummers soon pass -
I finished the day with 3 really good waves, and I retrieved my ego from the depths of The La Jolla Canyon.