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04 November 2005

No it ain't Greenough at Sand Spit! It's BA!!

Well today started pretty badly - at least for me -

- electrical problems with the auto, and a few residual, high tensions, from the previous day at work -

I figgered the inevitable auto repair problem wasn't going anywhere, and for about 50 years, a bit of salt water submersion has be cathartic for my work related and / or personal problems.

So, just as the doctor ordered, I went out for a couple of early morning waves.

[My arm has recovered perfectly from last summer's surgery, so, yesterday, I did my first serious vertical surfing in a couple of years - pain free vertical surfing for the first time in about 12 years]

- Yeah Baby Uno-

Today's LJ Shaws surf was pretty closed out - so I kneeboarded - I probably would not have surfed at all if I had only been able to use the Channel Islands 9 foot board I borrowed -

- Yeah Baby Dos -

So I went out, sat and sat, and finally caught a wave - not very big, and not very hollow - but still ...

John Slavin just happened to be snapping photos of some bona-fide surf stars, I got in the way, and luckily, at least for me - I got photo-ed.

Thanks Johnny!

The above photo partially illustrates why kneeboarding appeals to me:

Big wave / small wave - I like to ride as deeply as possible
Kneeboarding still puts me where I want to be on the wave
I can take-off on waves wayyy late

I'm not nearly as flexible as I used to be
Broken back 3 times, broken both legs more than once
If I get pitched, and I don't get to my knees, I'll ride the wave on my belly
Even I think I'm a kook 'cause I kneeboard, so what's the difference 1/2 man or flat man?
What the heck, I'm having a great time - more than 50 years into this surfing thang -
I don't think I have a whole lot more to prove - about my surfing, errr, lack of surfing skills!

So I guess I've come to grips with my revised surfing strategy - mooshy waves, any size - surf vertically -

Hollow waves, any size I've got the guts to ride, - 1/2 man or even flat man surfing -

Oh, by the way, The Arena was invaded this afternoon by War Ships from Venezuela, what did Geo. Bush do now??

BA

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