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10 November 2005
Today was my lucky day!

I was invited to make a whirl-wind surf trip with Wind**Sea locals Hunter and Ian!

The waves were huge - the red board in this photo is actually a 15 foot long paddle board!

Proof you ask:

Hunter is one gigantic kid - he's about 7 feet tall, and he's a quarterback for the San Diego Titans - so how big is this wave?

In fact, Hunter got pitched and ended-up on shore - then he almost got sucked back out into the Rip of Death!

Ian's even taller, he's a professional basketball player - plays center on the San Diego Clippers - so how big is this bomb?

Naturally, we ran into hostile locals, "going left" hacks and "going right" hacks.

There was a nice surf dad in the water, "Blue Board Kid" demonstrated the classic nose tweak, and the sunset, as I was told, sucked as always.

A little BA reminiscing:
How many of us had a parent who not only encouraged us to surf, but would also paddle-out and surf with us?

[I took these photos right before dark, so they're pretty crappy, but you get the idea]

Hunter is an EIGHT year old kid - imported from Hawaii to Wind**Sea a few months ago.

His dad - sometimes paddles-out with Hunter and occasionally will push Hunter into a wave:

Hunter's perfectly capable of catching waves on his own - and his dad is all smiles!

I grew-up less than 100 yards from the waves at LJ Shores - my dad NEVER saw me surf, much less encouraged me to do so!
BA



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