29 Dec 2005
Whew - I escaped from the Backs at Black's
Beach without breaking my board
- only to witness Johnny B
get an insane wave at B-Land -
Note Well my children:
B-Land used to be a beach break, but after the great flood of '04, the rocks became exposed - B-Land is for experienced surfers only!!
The Arena waves
were a bit rough, even for me - but I did make it out to my new favorite surf spot - Little Baby Girl Reformers -
I'm not strong enough any more to paddle all the way out to the Arena Peak - plus the locals
- most notably Duncan
- are incredibly hostile out there -
So, if I can make it through the shorebreak at Tommy Wolfe is a dork
Reef, I'm perfectly content to ride the reforms outside of TWiad
I think the waves at LBGR are so gentle that even the newest enrollee
in the class that I teach: Hostile Locals 101 - could handle them - the name is very is appropriate and is certainly not a put-down for baby girls!
28 Dec 2005
John Borlan - Outside Reef between Scripps Pier and The Mushroom House - Escondido, CA
27 Dec 2005
Today started with a spectacular sunrise
over the Lake's western edge, then I noticed that
was licking his chops 'cause the waves were so good
- HOWEVER -
as always, the locals
were very threatening - and naturally, the sunset sucked
Lake Murray Reef-er Madness & Punto del Triturador del Tablero
Speaking of madness - and I hope I don't get into any trouble for this - but maybe someone can explain to me why some parents let their kids run around on the top of bluffs - white water below
- incoming tide - 15 foot surf!
I know it may not be my business regarding parental control of cliff hanging kids, but I do know that I have rescued more than a handful of kids [not my own] who have fallen into the surf - when I gotta jump in, then I guess it does become my business??
is talking on the phone, and snapping photos of his kid
[who is on the other side of the drop-off]
dragged his dog and kid to the edge [the dog was not too stoked] and this family
was more interested - apparently - in a photo opp
than safety -
In my world - I ain't letting my kids get near the edge
- maybe these kids are better swimmers than I am?
must have thought his kids were part
mountain goat - I just don't get it!
was safe, maybe they were cheering for the survivors of the madness?
- 26 December 2005 -
The Greatest Show on Earth - well - maybe the Greatest in La Jolla!
John on the 1950 Balsa Simmons replica - RK on a 2005 Fish
25 Dec 2005
Christmas Morning - The Arena
Christmas Morning - The Shores
BA coaches another hostile local
23 Dec 2005
Just another crappy day in LJ
- lousy surf
- and another fog shrouded sunset
Dangerous cliff conditions - however - this is one time I would
have paid big $$ to be The Rescuer!
sez: "Fins first
- just like the instructions tell you"
21 Dec 2005
Felipe makes the long walk back from Ghost Trees Point
Richard Kenvin - today - riding a Balsa Simmons Twin Fin Replica
- circa 1950 - VERY IMPRESSIVE!!!
- AND -
- I'd like to add -
I can't think of another surfer in La Jolla more fitting to ride a Simmons type board than RK [or Jon Roseman]
[Beachfront Stuff] [The Shores (1) - The Shores (2)] [AM Uptown] [PM Uptown]
Simmons - My Words -
more to follow
  
The "Shallow End" La Jolla Shores
The view from my front porch - Little Makaha - 2:00 pm -
Black's 21 Dec 2005 photo by OB Root
The day, unfortunately, had to end
20 Dec 2005 The Day Before THE DAY
Patrick conquers Impossibles!
19 December 2005 - the day before, The Day Before, THE DAY
Whoa baby - If the surf wiz sez it's so - I gotta believe!
"Day-by-day predicted deep water (San Clemente Basin buoy)
early morning (4:00AM) significant wave heights:"
Today (Mon) 5.2 **********
Tuesday 5.9 ************
Wednesday 6.2 ************
Wed(peak) 11.8 ************************ (afternoon)
Thursday 11.5 ***********************
Friday 7.9 ****************
Saturday 6.9 **************
Sunday 5.2 **********
Monday 8.9 ******************
Tuesday(next) 7.6 ***************
Today did have some waves - a bit rough and crossed-up, but there were some for:
Hunter and his dad at El Centro
Ken and his Reef Girl sis
The Arenians - no, not Iranians
Tell the world as we know it "Surf's Up!!"
And - as usual - lousy sunrises
, lousy sunsets
, hostile locals
On a more serious note - PK's sister
got a new board, and a brave lady
had a beautiful photo-op - along with her supportive boyfriend
18 December 2005
I finally got-up the courage to leave Barrio La Jolla and go to Glamorous Pacific Beach - I visited a really cool surf shop there [the female employees were schmokin' hot
, but they seemed to like some surf star
more than they liked me] and it was there [Pacific Beach Surf Shop
]that I learned:
It's a little known fact that Nike also owns the surf line "Converse"
A way long time ago, Converse was a major supplier of basketball shoes to the NBA All-Stars -
Another little known fact is that Hunter Stretchman is not only one of the premier centers in the NBA, standing a full inch taller than The Shack
, but that Hunter is also a surfing legend in the La Jolla area.
I for one, admit that I'm a bit tired of seeing photos of Henry
, etc., getting great waves at The Marine Room - I was really stoked when I was able to capture the 7' 6" tall Hunter on one of the largest waves EVER ridden at Catfish Boat Launch, Ogden, Utah:
16 Dec 2005
Another day of polluted water, lousy surf, hostile locals
of all sizes
, a traditional "Welcome to The Lot
" and naturally, another crappy sunset
11 Dec 2005
I guess by now the word is out - Lake Huron
was on fire [no, not because of the toxic waste] this weekend!
I was lucky to be able to surf, and photo the best waves ever in Canada Lake Huron:
Henry was Shaun Thompson at Backdoor
JoJo was his daddy [switch footed]
Dennis was Miki Dora
Carsten was Phil Edwards
Ian [not Rotgans] was Da Bull
Scot was Scot
The Erie Ear Canal Connector
was wide open at sunrise
The Sea Bros [don't hack each other]
Rebecca [navigates thru the crowd]
Wayne Severson [goes right on a right - guy on shoulder goes left on the perfect right]
Matty [displays the broken Bessell nose - courtesy of a Shallow Ended Kookmeyer]
was The Mexican Pipeline
, Puerto Escondido for a while!
The low tide made for some great Frontside Ollies over the ledge!
As a bonus - the rights off the end of Scipps Pier were uncrowded, and fairly large.
Henry Hunte - Lake Huron, Canada
Emo at Punta Casa Blanca
Henry Hunte backdoors the Point at LJ Beach and Tennis Club
10 Dec 2005
The WindanSea Surf Club had their annual Christmas party at Punta Bruticus Maximus
I had never been down there [PBM] so was I in for a surprise!
The wave is rideable, only on the full moon, in the dead of night -
The wave is very similar to the left at The Mexican Pipeline
, Puerto Escondido.
As far as I know, I'm the first photo-journalist to ever take photos here.
The locals limited my equipment - no, not that equipment, my photo equipment - to a Kodak Brownie; and I did the best I could with a film camera without a flash bulb, and with a very slow shutter speed -
Yeah, I know, my photos, as usual are out of focus, etc., but this time, it was the song and not the singer.
Night Rider New York Mike destroys The Wave at The WindanSea Surf Club's Christmas Party 10 Dec 2005 - Punta Bruticus Maximus - Mexico
If you ever get a chance to go to Bruticus Maximus
you gotta go - but just one more thing - make sure you ask the bar tenders to show you the surfing photos of ME - the ones that Joe Roper laminated on to the bar table tops.
07 Dec 2005
In The Arena for Surfing