|Welcome to a Day with BA - March 2010|
"Yesterday is History - Tomorrow is a Mystery - And Today is a Gift..."
If you're paddling out on a short board, and some big guy on a long board is barrelling along the face of the wave, it's better if you stop, and take the wave on the head, rather than sprinting to the shoulder - you'll NEVER win that race!BA
When you first paddle out into a pack of local surfers, wait your turn, even Kelly, Rob and and I do that.
AM Photos of ElseWhere Reefs I and IIBA
AM Photos | There was a really cool bunch of young men and women playing in the sand today - They work at Active.com - This is how they warm-up for the new day - I don't think they'll be getting my resume!BA
The switch to government mandated Daylight Saving Time is most annoying!BA
Having Daylight Saving Time start on the last Sunday in April was okay - the 2nd Sunday in March, unacceptable!
The later sunrise seriously affects my AM surfing - oh well - at least I'm collecting my government issued Social Security check [of course I paid into SS since 1962, I better get something back]
AM Photos 1 | AM Photos 2BA
AM Photos | PM Photos 1 | PM Photos 2 | PM Photos 3 | PM Photos 4BA
AM Photos - WSC at their bestBA
As I've said ad nauseam - "It ain't the song, it's the singer!"BA
Today, no Bozos on surfboards, and only one on a SUP
Really good White House Rights today, and the only score which interest me: No one dropped in on me, no one wanted to beat me up - WHEW!
I took more than 400 photos today at Tommy Wolfe Is A Dork Reef - WHEW - all uploaded - the goofy-footed surf stars are Lucas, Ryan and Cyrus [sp?]BA
I surfed too much today - my photos are terrible - upload somedayBA
3 paddle outs today - whew!
Stay away from this page!! - If you've been surfing for less than 20 years, you just won't get it!BA
Two more days until the inspiration begins again - settlers vs pioneersBA
Whew - thank gawd that only 5 people - including my mother - read my spew-ola from yesterday.Actually, the lessons from the surf - assuming you really do want to take your surfing to the next level - will be valuable to you as life's lessons - they might actually make you a better citizen- remember - keep paddling.
I received more than 100 emails from yuppie puke surfers - somebody must have gotten a hair up the *** - and put me on some sort of spam list.
You did get one thing right:In the world of surfing, I am pretty darn old - much closer to age 70 than I am to age 60 - however - I ain't trying to regulate anything in the lineup. I'm just trying to ensure there is a bit of safety, etiquette, and harmony.As long as you stay away from me, it's just fine if you play by your own rules - it might help if you also get agreement from the others in the water.
1. Buy a new longboard - the least you can do is buy it from a local surf shop - actually - get more than one - if the red one won't work, maybe the green one will.
2. Get a nice sturdy leash, the longer the better - you're gonna need it - 'cause if you're like the rest of the donkeys in the lineup, you'll NEVER learn how to control your board, kick out, or even hold on to your board.
3. Make sure you paddle out right thru the break - why worry about the surfers who actually want to ride the wave - make sure you get in their way - they wanted to improve on their slalom skills anyway
4. Take-off on every wave you can - after all - you're the most important one in the water - you have EVERY right to ruin EVERY wave - just like you have every right to drive a car and not obey any traffic laws - after all the shoulder on the wave is just like a freeway onramp - just close your eyes - hit the gas - the other drivers will get out of your way - again - you're the most important person in this world
5. Develop a group of fellow self centered surfers - you can get a family deal on cell phones and you can clog the parking lots with your fat *** SUVs and clog the lineup with your fellow kooks - it takes a village to become a real surfer today.
It started a few weeks ago, La Jolla Shores - way cool looking guy - way cool new longboard - way cool surf leash - way cool wetsuit - way cool surf gloves -BA
It seemed that every time I was paddling back out, he was about 10 yards ahead of me.
[The surf has been pretty consistent at The Shores - but even I can get out - usually - without ditching my board on the paddle out]Cool dude lets go of his board - it seemed - EVERY TIME he was in front of me.
My De facto role at The Shores - apparently, has become - a blend of regulator and instructor - confusing but what the heck.
So, using my best instructor simulator, I say to cool dude:"Maybe you oughta try holding on to your board. Just because you're tied to it [the board], that should not be an excuse to ditch your board. I'm at least twice your age but 1/2 your coolness and strength, and even I can hold on in these waves.I was thinking: Maybe I've gone too far with this one, get ready for a gloved punch to the chops - luckily for me, no response - WHEW.
Eventually, your leash, even though it's 1" in diameter, is gonna break, and I'll probably be the one hit in the melon by your runaway 11' Ben Aipa board."
So - today at The Shores - 2 kids, maybe about 10 - 12 years old - just beginners - right in the low tide impact zone - really in the way - really dangerous to themselves and others - so I say, in my most fatherly manner: "Are you kids with an adult?"
Kids say they are, and point - guess to whom - way cool guy on the Ben Aipa.
I paddle over to dad on the Aipa, and say: "I think it's great that you get to surf with your kids - that's something I wish I could have shared with my father and my own kids - and I hope you're teaching them about surf safety and surf etiquette."
His response: "Are you trying to lesson me?"
My response: "Yes I am ...would you let your kids play in the middle of a busy street? Your neighbors would probably call Child Protective Services, this is all about their safety. I don't want to be the one rescuing them, I've done enough rescuing in my lifetime. I wouldn't even think about teaching my kids to surf in these conditions, right in the middle of the pack."
He says: "Yes they are learning."
I paddle away - enough said - he's just another longboard kook [JALK]
What are they learning? Are they gonna be just like their dad? Just what we need in today's crowded surf conditions, more clueless spawn of clueless surfing parents.
AM Photos 1 Featuring: EMO never falls! | Another Oaron - Paddling right thru the middle of the pack | A flying Tristan or a Mutant Harbor Seal?BA
AM Photos 2 Featuring: A photo that no one will believe, T.O. falling off his board! | A photo that no one will believe, JoJo surfing The Shores
Roper's Fault Line - A Geologic Enigma - Was the genesis of this fault: [A] Too many kooks in The Arena, or [B] Global Warming caused by too many kooks in the world? Treasures discovered!
AM Photos 4
BAChapter One: Joe Roper Vs The Fault lineI've been posting photos of Roper's Geyser - the new blow hole in The Arena
This afternoon I took a closer look at the blow hole, and where it's located on the bluff.
Pretty cool, as you walk down the bluff the fault line runs diagonally from the water toward the cactus
I'm gonna take more photos this weekend and maybe get an explanation from a Geology Eddie about the line...
Getting back to Roper - the word in The Lot is that he plans on patching the crack with a special mixture of secret stuff - I hope the EPA doesn't hear about this one!
This repair could get very interesting!
AM Photos 1 | AM Photos 2BA
AM - PM PhotosBA
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