|Welcome to a Day with BA Entries For October - 2013 -|
"Yesterday is History - Tomorrow is a Mystery - And Today is a Gift..."
The Doc practices her Reef / Roxy look while JP concentrates on surfing, and starts paddling for the wave - o - day.BA
Sometimes I have to leave Surfers Paradise, AKA The Shores, and surf in front of one, of the many rows of ramshackle shacks in Barrio La Jolla
Mike got a couple by himself [before I clogged the lineup]BA
Water tube takeoff
Rare photo of the lethal snout of a South Amazon sawfish as it swam below me - whew - we were lucky to survive this close call!
Narrative Illustrated: I was visiting my doctor, and I noticed that there were a number of old [my age] patients parking in the lot behind the office, so, being the nice guy I am, I chose to park on the street, rather than taking / clogging the last parking place in the lot.
Nolan [AKA BamBam] asks Granddaddy Billy: "How's this for the Wind**Sea Stink-Eye?"BA
The Doc and John point their boards in the correct angle as they prepare for synchronized surfing at 'Kob's
Audrey [AKA Audee] says: "Granddaddy Billy, no more photos - Nolan and I have not signed the photo releases!"
About 300 years ago, when the ocean was fresh water, and I was actually one of the younger ones in the line-up [as compared to now, when I am by far the oldest] my surfing goals [as a Shores Guy] were [abridged]:BA
Surf WindanSea [AKA Twang©®™] without getting punched [failed]
Surf WindanSea and avoid getting stuffed into a trash can and rolled down the bluff into the whomp [failed]
Surf WindanSea and avoid getting hung naked from the shack [failed]
Surf WindanSea and avoid getting duct taped to my board and launched into the whomp [failed]I considered myself to be a fairly quick study, and after failing miserably when I attempted to reach the above goals, I started surfing Stirnkorb's Reef[AKA 'Kob's©™®] for a couple of reasons:
Jerry Stirnkorb was always nice [reasonably] when we would surf together at "his" reef or The Shores.
Even though 'Kob's was considered [and still is] by some of the WindanSea elitists as an inferior wave [as they did, many years ago, consider Black's to be inferior to Twang] it was a pretty darn difficult wave to master on balsa or 30 pound Andy Jones foam surfboards.
Glenn Chase ArtBA
Harold - I am honored to call him a good friend
John Haffey on his Joe Tudor inspired / early 70's style board - single fin - very narrow swallow tailBA
Late October south swell and the sand is still in, in The Arena
I haven't surfed much in the afternoons for a couple of years - however - the after school rats in Ratland are as good as any
Could I chase down BamBam? I doubt it!BA
Mutant Harbor SealBA
Surf Mat Eddy is about to taste some sand!
The doctor is either flashing me a top secret surgeon / gang sign or she is indicating the size of something missing in my life [or maybe hers?]
We [WindanSea Surf Club] have been sponsoring a kids' contest [Menehunes] at La Jolla Shores since about 1965...
I have had the honor of being Beach Marshall for the past 2,000 years or so and every year a few of the surf parents vary in jack-ass behavior ranging from slightly annoying all the way to pushing me [and the other spectators] to get ready to call 911 / Child Protective Services.
The past couple of years - until this year - have been pretty easy, and my blood pressure has remained in the "almost ready to explode" range.
However this year, the father of a six year old little girl Menehune competitor pushed me to a point of almost no return - luckily I was not wearing my BP Cuff, 'cause I'm sure I would have set a new personal best [or worst] of 96006 / 1234567679 - pulse rate of 623 bpm.
I've been surfing LJ Shores since 1953, and I'm pretty sure I have the local conditions [long shore currents, rips, etc] figgered out and am pretty good at helping others paddle out thru the waves -
The father of the little girl insisted that she paddle out where he decided [beach start] and once she was out, he walked out into chest deep water and stood next to her, screaming at her to go, paddle out, paddle in, etc.
Luckily, this was gonna be my last heat to beach marshal, and after the heat was over, I tried to separate him from his daughter and give him the appropriate lecture.
He would not even slow down for the lecture, and he stomped away, daughter's board in one arm, dragging the little girl behind him.
A few of the other surf parents also let him have it - I figgered he was not worth any more of my venom, and I have his mug shot firmly embedded in my melon - I've never seen the guy before - and - I hope I do see him in the line-up for a man to bully discussion.
Doc Julie demonstrates stapling techniques she learned in Funk [FU] Nebraska's medical school...BA
A BA sacrifice for an action packed photo - pretty close!BA
The last person in La Jolla who dropped in on Doc Julie was captured and taken to The Lab, and has been mutated from a Surf Rat into a Lab Rat [don't say I didn't warn you!]BA
Bill Andrews Photos Arena Sequence : PM Photos La Jolla Reefs 1 :
This is an interesting sequence: I don't want to embarrass surfer #1, and this
sequence may be out of context, but for what it's worth in my opinion:
Surfer #1 takes off and charges for the shoulder
Surfer #2 waits for Shoulder Charger to take aim for the shoulder - and pass by
Then he [#2] takes off and does more turns on one short ride than #1 [probably] performs in a month
Again - just my observation on one wave -
The reason that I find the sequence so interesting, is that I often let Shoulder Chargers©®™ aka SC©®™ go and I take off behind the SC - this strategy can get a bit dicey if the SC decides to bail and rely on the 30' tether which attaches the SC to his board.
A couple of surfing's clearly written and often referenced [especially by ME] rules are:BA
1. DON'T TAKE OFF ON THE SHOULDER [SHOULDER HOPPING]
2. WHEN YOU ATTEMPT A SHOULDER HOP, AND PULL BACK OUT OF THE WAVE, YOU MAKE THE FACE OF THE WAVE CRUMBLE
[one can get away with this crapola at The Shores because The Shores has become ultra pussified - go somewhere else and one might pay dearly for crumble creating]
North Swell, South Wind - Finally!BA
White House Rights - a right of passage for those of us lucky enough to have experienced The Shores when there was a White House!BA
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