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July 28, 2004 - An Interesting Conversation -
I drove thru The Shores parking lot yesterday morning, and had an interesting conversation with a guy [**** ****] who is an outstanding surfer.
He surfs the LJ Reefs and The Shores as well as anyone [including ME] and he has always been courteous in, and out of, the water.
He said: "Hey BA, do you think I have been catching too many waves at ********* [a well known LJ reef break]?
My response: "Dude, what makes you think that you've been overzealous with your wave count?"
| He piqued my curiosity for two reasons: |
| * Inquiring minds, like mine, always wanna know [something] |
| * We surf together almost daily, and I had never heard nuttin' negative about his surfing or wave count
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**** **** continues: "A couple of days ago, I heard a couple of your friends muttering about the number of waves I've been catching - and the last thing I want to do is to piss off anybody out there, or at least the local guys!"
"Hey BA, get to the point, why is a guy complaining to you of any interest to ANYBODY?"
What is interesting, is the fact that here's a guy who has been surfing in La Jolla for at least 25 years, and he's concerned about his etiquette in the lineup, and how his peer group views him.
Just compare his behavior, and concern about etiquette, to that of the average kook who paddles out ANYWHERE the waves are good.
Most of these kooks don't give a darn about The Rules, they take-off without looking to the right or the left; they don't / won't / can't hold on to their boards during a paddle-out; etc., etc....
It never fails - those who should be in the choir, never are!
By the way **** ****, you shred, and anyone who's doggin' you, better join my church, and become a member of my choir - and then listen to my sermons!
Sermon to kooks: Paddle around the peak - all you gotta do is look - find the shoulders - paddle around - not thru!
[Kelly Slater and **** ****, paddle around, if they do, why won't you??]
Photo courtesy of Culture Wave Surfing
Later,
BA
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