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September 21, 2004 -
BA Ends His Knowledge Quest - Plus Wind**Sea Today

I finally came to my senses last night and saw the light -

Why in the hell should I care why those who say they like to surf, don't surf?

I ain't no Doctor Bill, and just like the saying goes: "if you don't surf, don't start."

I guess I could say: "if you used to surf, you're much better off sitting on the Bench of Despair, talking about how good you used to be, rather than clogging the line-up with your fat ass, 10' board, and your 15' leash.

So, back to ME and my surfing day.

Wind**Sea this am was pretty darn good - and the best thing about it, when there are two, crossed-up swells, is that it looks pretty crappy from the bluff.

The inside left was about as good as it ever gets, in fact, in the 45 years or so that I've been surfing Wind**Sea, I've only seen the inside left get as hollow as it was this morning a few times.

Since I NEVER used to go right at Wind**Sea, exceptional left days are pretty well etched in my memory bank(s)

Don't Hack Jay pulled into 2 lefts that were round - not the typical almond shape of So Cal waves - even he was stoked!

Anyway, I took my usual pounding - just getting out and back in was exciting - and survived to torment the surf crowd one more time.

Tuesday 9/21/04



BA

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